Sailing the BVI from Saba Rock to the Baths: An Insiders Guide to the Best of the BVI

The British Virgin Islands (BVI) are one of the most popular sailing destinations in the world. Sailors are drawn by the relatively easy sailing, including line-of-sight navigation, small tidal changes, and constant trade winds. But the BVI is more than an easy place to sail. It’s also one of the most beautiful areas in the Caribbean with green, hilly islands rising out of clear aqua-blue seas, white sandy beaches, massive rock formations, and palm trees. Places like Saba Rock, Jost Van Dyke, The Baths, and The Bubbly Pool are incredible to experience.  There are also a multitude of varied activities that will please everyone on the boat. As a BVI sailing insider, what follows is an in-depth look at the best of the BVI.

Virgin Gorda is the third largest of the many British Virgin Islands and measures just 8 ½ miles long. Virgin Gorda translates to 'The Fat Virgin' and it is said that the island got its name because its shape resembles a reclining woman with a protruding belly. There are many great bays and beaches to explore on Virgin Gorda but my favorites are North Sound and The Baths. Within North Sound, my favorite destinations are Leverick Bay and Saba Rock.

Leverick Bay is home to the Leverick Bay resort on the southwest side of North Sound. This is an ideal spot to stay overnight when you need a break from the boat. I would recommend that you arrive on a Friday at about mid-morning to ensure finding a mooring ball. Then you can dingy to the resort and spend the day in their fresh water pool, sipping tropical drinks as you take in the colorful scenery. After spending a lot of time in salt water, the fresh cool water of the pool feels great. By late afternoon, you’ll be ready to head back to your boat to nap, shower and dress for dinner. You won’t want to miss the Beach BBQ dinner every Friday night at the resort. Be sure to put in your reservation early and request one of the prime tables that are embedded into the hillside. While you eat, you’ll have an amazing view of the sunset. Following dinner, you’ll be treated to a live band and dancing as well as the Mocko Jumbies Sky Dancers. These dancers wear stilts, masks, and colorful costumes as they dance to the Caribbean music. If you’ve never seen a Mocko Jumbies performance, be sure to put this on your itinerary.

Saba Rock is a resort located on the north side of North Sound. As the name implies, Saba Rock is a small island, literally a rock, with a restaurant and hotel on it. What many people don’t realize is that behind the restaurant and hotel is a well-tended garden that’s the essence of solitude. The first time I saw it I named it 'The Secret Garden.' You’ll see manicured grass, flower gardens that use pale pink Conch shells as a border, and hammocks next to the ocean for relaxing. It’s a shady, breezy place to get out of the sun and kick back for a while. This garden is perfect after your night of dancing with the Jumbies the evening before.

The Baths is one of the premier destinations of the British Virgin Islands and it must be included in your trip. You’ll see why the moment you arrive. Large granite boulders, some measuring at least 20 feet high, lie on the shore scattered as if they were pebbles dropped down from above. Some lie on top of others and some are situated next to each other to form caverns, passage ways and caves between the rocks. Pools of water can be found in these caves as well. Take your snorkeling gear and waterproof camera and get ready to explore. The snorkeling here is top rate with plenty of colorful reef fish and walls of coral. I even saw a boy ‘fishing’ for crab at the Baths. He was wearing gloves of course!

Jost Van Dyke is the smallest of the four main islands in the BVI measuring just three square miles. It’s most well-known destination is Great Harbor, home of the renowned Foxy’s Bar. During my first trip to the BVI, we moored in Great Harbor and tried to eat dinner at Foxy’s. Unfortunately, it wasn’t a great experience. The harbor was so crowded that other boats were moored uncomfortable close to us. The restaurant was so full that we couldn’t get a table. Instead of Great Harbor, I prefer the quieter locations on Jost Van Dyke, like White Bay and Diamond Cay.

White Bay is named for its expanse of white beach running the entire length of the bay. It’s small and protected by reefs, making for gentle moorings with amazing views of the beach and mountainous island terrain. The best strategy for visiting White Bay is to arrive mid-to-late morning to ensure getting a mooring ball as there aren’t very many of them and it fills up fast. The best known destination here is the Soggy Dollar Bar, home of the original Pain Killer. The Soggy Dollar is said to have gotten its name because sailors had to jump off their boats and swim ashore with their then soggy money to buy drinks. Luckily we have dingy’s now but I did swim ashore once just to say that I did it. The Pain Killer is a potent and tasty rum drink spiced with nutmeg. The Nilla Killer is a vanilla flavored version that’s out of this world. Nothing beats swimming in the surf of White Bay sipping a Pain Killer! Down the beach, check out the One Love Bar and Ivan’s Stress Free Bar. I was shocked to learn that patrons at the Stress Free Bar mix their own drinks and leave their payment at the register. We met locals and tourists alike as we mixed some drinks and relaxed at this cozy beach bar.

Diamond Cay is at the far east end of Jost Van Dyke. Again, this is a quiet location with few mooring balls. The key attraction here is The Bubbly Pool, a naturally formed pool that forms frothy bubbles at high tide. Be sure to time your visit to hit high tide. After a short hike along a goat path, you’ll come to an opening in the trail that culminates in The Bubbly Pool. Take your swimsuit and wear tennis shoes for the hike but be prepared to take them off and relax in The Bubbly Pool with a cold beverage. One of the things that makes this spot special is that it’s a bit elusive getting there at the right moment of high tide to experience the bubbles but it’s definitely worth the effort.

Norman Island is an uninhabited island about 2.5 miles long just across the Sir Francis Drake channel from Tortola. It makes a great stop for your first night on the boat since it’s relatively close to the main marinas on Tortola. It’s said that the island has a history of pirates and treasure and was the inspiration for the book “Treasure Island,” by Robert Louis Stevenson.

Although technically not part of Norman Island, The Indians, an outcropping of four rocks that resemble an Indian headdress, is close enough to mention here. You’ll encounter the Indians as you sail from Road Town, Tortola to Norman Island. It’s definitely worth stopping here since this is arguably the best snorkeling destination in the BVI. Here you’ll see large schools of colorful fish that will part the way as you swim towards them. I once saw a baby shark that scared me into swimming back to the boat. On my way back, a sea turtle swam with me just above me and to my left. It was amazing!

After you leave the Indians, head straight to Norman Island’s The Bight. The most well-known attraction here is the floating restaurant aboard the William Thornton. If you like wild parties, this is the place to go. But be forewarned…don’t take your children here if you don’t want them to be exposed to potential nudity. The female clientele are said to jump off the boat topless to get a Willie T t-shirt.

A calmer and more natural attraction at Norman Island is The Caves. As you’re facing the harbor, take your dingy around the point on the right side of the island. There you’ll see steep cliffs mottled with caves. There are several places to pick up a mooring for your boat or your dingy. Be sure to take a flashlight with you as you snorkel into the caves. It’s a bit creepy but can’t be missed!

The BVI is one of the most popular sailing destinations in the world, and for good reason.  The combination of relatively easy sailing, beautiful sights, and bountiful off-boat activities makes it extremely appealing.  Enjoy your trip even more by following this insider’s guide to the best of sailing the BVI.